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Who: Roberto Cantori

Where:  Papiro,Macerata • Marche - Italy

Founded: 2016

Land: 6 hectares, 450 meters above sea level

Grapes: Verdicchio

Appellation: Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi doc

Viticulture: Organic

Annual Production:

 

We met Roberto Cantori in the winter of 2019 at his vineyard in the hills of Apiro. It took us some time getting there, Fattoria Nannì is a hidden gem, off a winding country dirt road. Roberto is charming, lots of passion and energy, with a calm nature about him. This guy makes the finest Verdicchio we have ever had! But before we go there, let's chat about the history of his lands.

The vineyard is in Arsicci (Apiro, Macerata), smack in the heart of the Marche region and not so far up the hill from where Roberto grew up and calls' home.' Apiro is in the rolling foothills of the Apennine. Ancient hills that have fount over kings and religious domination, lands of nobles worked by peasants. The vineyards are in a perfect micro-climate much higher than most Verdicchio Dei Castelli di Jesi DOC vineyards. Across the valley is Monte San Vicino, a beacon in these hills. The land belonged to a notorious rebel who found this gem of land, planted Verdicchio, and cared for it organically back in the 1960s. People were in disbelief, thinking his location would be far from anything real. He was a man before his time; when others went left, he went right, when others planted to the east, he planted north - with the total understanding and respect of the microclimate. Roberto grew up hearing the stories. When moon aligned, he bought the land, and in honor, he continues to grow only Verdicchio, only in tune with the nature that assists him. Production is at 4,000 bottles (2018) though he was room to grow.

2019 is Roberto Cantori's, 3rd harvest of old vine Verdicchio. With his parents assistance, Dad was the town Butcher, and his mother has a hair salon (makes sense, the kid has great hair) he bought lands, built a winery and now building Fattoria Nanni's reputation for the best Verdicchio, all while increasing the understanding of what you can really do in the hills of the Marche. This guy is as golden as his wine!

 

About the Verdicchio dei Casteli di Jesi DOC:

History: Established as a DOC in 1968; Riserva became the Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva DOCG in 2010
Vineyard Area: 1,820 ha / 4,495 acres (2017)
Production: 128,900 hl / 1,433,000 cases (2018)
Principal White Grape Varieties: Verdicchio

Styles and Wine Composition:

  • Bianco (Wh): Minimum 85% Verdicchio + OAWG

  • Superiore (Classico)


Significant Production Rules:

  • Minimum alcohol level: 11.5% for Bianco; 12.0% for Classico Superiore

 
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Origini

The vineyards are in Arsicci, near Apiro, Macerata, in one of the highest and quite arguably the best areas for the production of Verdicchio. The fruits are exquisite; in the bottle is an enchanting play between the harsh soil and the freshness of the grape.  The nose is alluring fruit and floral bouquet, with impressions of wisteria, citrus and bitter almond. In the mouth it exposes an energetic friskiness of texture, with salty sea shells and a long hallway of a finish.

Designation: Verdicchio Castelli di Jesi DOC

Grape Types: Verdicchio 100%

Alcohol content: 12.5%

Vineyards: Vines over 50 years old, located at an altitude of 450 meters on calcareous soils

Vinification: Alcoholic fermentation in steel

Aging: Some months in steel

 
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Arsicci

The little brother of Origini. Arsicci is an ‘easier’ version of Origini with the flavors a bit softer and less complex, though the quality and tastiness is still there. Made from a combo of newer plantings and 50 year old plants, this wine is perfect for everyday enjoyment.

Designation: Verdicchio Castelli di Jesi DOC

Grape Types: Verdicchio 100%

Alcohol content: 12.5%

Vineyards: 5+ year old vineyards with a bit of 50 years old, located at an altitude of 300 -450 meters on calcareous soils

Vinification: Alcoholic fermentation in steel

Aging: A month or 2 in steel